April Apple Grafting and Air Prune Box Update

 Apple Grafting Update

On 4/16/2025, it was noted that these grafted plants had had too much time inside (see Figures 1-3).  Too many growing degree days accumulated too quickly in the interior basement room of my house, and they broke from dormancy earlier than desired, as it was still too cold to move them fully outside into the air prune box.  Plants were moved in an unheated farmhouse garage while construction of the air prune bed was finished.

As can be seen in Figures 1-3, Hudson's, William's Pride (WP) and Pristine all took off at the top (from the scion) quickly. By April 25th, almost all of the grafts had green leaves above the graft union, as is shown in Figure 4.  Figure 4 also shows that many had leaves below the graft union that needed to be removed. Whenever this happened, the buds were stripped immediately.  On 4/25/25, all grafts were moved into the air prune box per Figure 5.

Figure 1. Pristine (L) and Hubbardston Nonsuch (R) on 4/16/25.

Figure 2.William's Pride (L), Freedom (R, bottom), and Gilpin (R, top) on 4/16/25.

Figure 3. Hudson's Golden Gem (L) and Pink Pearl (R) on 4/16/25.

Figure 4. Green growth took off on the apples between April 16th and 25th.  Again, all shoots below the graft union were pinched off.  All flower buds were pinched off when spotted.

Figure 5. Plants placed in the air prune box on 4/25/2025.

Small Nut Tree Update

Figures 6 & 7 show that several nut trees were also moved from small start containers into the air prune box.  While most showed a nice taproot, there was 1 oak tree that had a "confused" tap root, as is shown in Figure 7.

Figure 6. Several swamp oaks and northern pecans were planted from seed taken from the 2024 MNFGA meetings.

Figure 7. Tap root comparisons.

Air Prune Box Construction

Two air prune beds were constructed between 4/16/2025 and 4/18/2025 using a pocket hole jig, treated 2x4 lumber, and untreated cedar for everything else (per the plans published earlier).  Figures 8-13 show the air prune box assembly process.

First, all wood was cut or ripped to the appropriate dimensions.  Pocket holes were drilled in the shorter pieces and would face the exterior of the box when possible (Figures 8 and 9).  If the fit of the boards looked good, boards were assembled vertically so that pocket hole screws could be inserted downwards into the wood (shown in Figure 10 with the treated 2x4s).  Figures 11-13 show the addition of the wire mesh on the bottom.  For each box, a slightly different support method was used.  In the first one, a full layer of larger gauge wire with bigger holes was added to help the 1/4" hardware cloth take the weight of the soil (Figure 12).  After stapling the wire mesh in place, the 2x2s were screwed onto it to increase the holding power of the wire mesh.  Figure 13 shows the second method that was used, where 2 lengths of the the larger gauge wire (cut off from the larger pore mesh used in Figure 12) were run the length of the box.  The 1/4" hardware cloth was stapled on top of this and then the 2x2s were again screwed onto the 1/4" hardware cloth to further hold it in place.  Figure 14 shows the fully assembled finished products.  Note that the 2x2 side of the bottom treated lumber piece faces up with the 2x4s on the bottom.  Cement blocks were added to decrease the likelihood of root escape into the native soil.

Figure 8. Purchased boards were cut to length and pocket holes were added as appropriate.  A dedicated plug-in drill was useful for the repeated pocket hole drilling.

Figure 9. Pocket hole screws and assembly table used for checking board lengths and layout.

Figure 10. Boards were placed vertically so that screws could be inserted in a downward direction during assembly.

Figure 11. Materials used to secure the wire mesh bottom of the air prune beds between the 2x4s and 2x2s.

Figure 12. One box had a full extra layer of larger gauge wire below the 1/4" hardware cloth to help support the weight of the soil.

Figure 13. The other box only had two lines of larger gauge wire added to support the 1/4" hardware cloth.

Figure 14. Finished, assembled boxes after soil but before plants.

2025 Q1 & Q2 Kiwi Growth Summary

 First Half of 2025 Growth Documentation

On 3/17/25, I noted that the vole guards were creating a very humid, likely overly warm environment for the kiwiberries on which they had been applied (see Figure 1).  These were removed between April 17th and May 7th, but the specific date was not documented.  Other than these images, it was also not documented which plants had vole guards and which did not.  Although the overly warm/humid environment could (and may) have created issues with early leafing out or bud break, that was not a noted issue in the 2025 growing season.

Figure 1. Images from 3/17 showing the condensing humidity on the interior of the vole guards.

Sequential images of the indicator plants were taken on 4/7/25, 4/17/25 and 6/2/25, as is seen in Figures 2-10.  Comparing images taken on 4/7 to those on 4/17 show significant budswelling between these two dates.  Plants were fully leafed out by the 6/2/25 date.  Full leafing out was noted on 5/7/2025 (per Figure 11), but closed flower buds were not noted until 5/11/2025 (per Figure 12).  Per my recollections, only Geneva 3 and Cheng Bai Mountain had flowers in 2025.  None of the male plants flowered at all.  Figures 2-10 support the conclusion that bloom was done by 6/2/25, since no white flowers are visible in any of these images.

Figure 2. Ken's Red, Plant KA-8.

Figure 3. Clark (male), Plant KB-2.

Figure 4. Geneva 3, Plant KB-5.

Figure 5. Cheng Bai Mountain, Plant KB-7.  Note that due to an error, plant KB-8 & 9 were imaged instead of KB-7.  KB-9 (closes to the vertical pole) will most closely resemble KB-7 as it is also a Cheng Bai Mountain plant.

Figure 6. Fairchild (male), Plant KC-4.

Figure 7. Hardy Red, Plant KC-6.  Note that contrast and brightness have been altered in this third image so that plant leaves are more visible.

Figure 8. Anna, Plant KC-8.

Figure 9. Optiz (male), Plant KD-2.

Figure 10. Meader (male), Plant KD-7.

Figure 11. Plants had fully begun leafing out by 5/7/2025.

Figure 2. Closed buds visible on Cheng Bai Mountain, KB-7 on 5/11/2025.  Look between the bamboo stake and the leaf near the top of the plant.

 

2024 Year End Kiwiberry Summary (planting year)

 Kiwiberry growth habits/progress

The kiwiberries chosen for tracking were photographed as 2024 progressed through the first hard frost (and some through the loss of leaves).  These images are shared below.  In general, many of these plants show considerable transplant stress initially.  As the images show, there was a hard frost between 9/18/25 and 10/28/24, and the plants leaves were in the process of falling by the end of October.  Figures 5 & 9 also show that most defoliation had completed by early November.  The Optiz plant (Figure 8) had more leaves on it than the Fairchild plant (Figure 5) in November.  The Optiz plant would die back to the ground the following year and resprout, so perhaps some of this can be explained by failure to fully harden off.  I will attempt to take more pictures in the fall of 2026 to see if this is the case.

All plants are female unless noted otherwise.

Figure 1. Ken's Red, Plant KA-8

Figure 2. Clark (male), Plant KB-2

Figure 3. Geneva 3, Plant KB-5

Figure 4. Cheng Bai Mountain, Plant KB-7

Figure 5. Fairchild (male), Plant KC-4

Figure 6. Hardy Red, Plant KC-6

Figure 7. Anna, Plant KC-8

Figure 8. Optiz (male), Plant KD-2

Figure 9. Meader (male), Plant KD-7

As Figures 1-9 show, the fastest initial establishing plants seem to be Geneva 3, Cheng Bai Mountain and Anna (based on quickness to reach the top wire).  The fastest male establishing male was Clark with Fairchild as a bushy second fastest.  

Pest Pressure

No pest pressure was noted this growing year except from Japanese Beetles.  In the winter, the deer did not attempt to access the kiwi growing area, as can be seen by the lack of animal prints through the snow (my footprints are shown from a routine fence inspection).  Care was taken to stake the growing fabric well back from each vine to minimize cover and habitat for voles near the base of the vines.

Figure 10. Deer Control Documentation, Image taken on 1/28/25

Kiwi Stakes Update

 May Kiwiberry Trellising

On 5/30/25, all bamboo stakes were tied up to the trellis.  Two plants in rows KC and KD had completely fallen over.  Note: it would have been much better to get taller stakes that went all the way up to the trellis rather than to have to go through and tie these shorter stakes up.  

In order to tie them in such a way that they did not pull off the end of the stakes, I settled on a choke chain method using sisal baler twine from orchard valley supply.  This is illustrated for future reference below.

Figure 1. The top of the bamboo stake before tying with twine.

Figure 2. Start by cutting an appropriate length of twine and placing it in front of the stake with the shorter end off to the left. (I wrapped 6 inches over the top of the trellis and then pulled the twine down to my bellybutton before cutting).

Figure 3. Wrap the longer end of the twine around the stake 1-2 times.

Figure 4. Now wrap the shorter piece around the longer end 1-2 times  This is where the choke comes from.  When the longer piece pulls up, it tightens this wrapping.

Figure 5. Add a square knot to secure the choke, ideally this should be done below a "knob" in the bamboo stake.

Figure 6. Final twine image after the square knot is completed

Figure 7. The twine was tied to the middle wire of the trellis.  It was wrapped a few times around to keep it from sliding along the wire.

Figure 8. This is the same kiwiberry plant after working the vines up in a counterclockwise fashion along the stake and twine.

Figure 9. Kiwiberry planting after all twine was tied.

Note that Figure 9 shows that the bottom wire of the fence is disconnected.  An animal had entered the planting area and run North, pulling the bottom wire of the fence about 5' out on the north edge.  The bottom wire of the fence will be reconnected after replacement fence insulators are ordered.

Update from 2 days later - the twine is staying attached to the stakes, but the wind is pulling the bottom of the stakes out of the ground.  I definitely should have purchased longer stakes.  Also, it seems like some of the vines are not eager to reach up without firmer staking.  I will report on this more as they begin to reach the top wire.

Air Pruning Box Assembly and First Use

 Air Pruning Box Assembly

Pruning boxes were assembled starting with the treated 2x4 layer.  A Kreg pockethole jig was used for strength, rather than drilling into the endgrain of the wood as is shown in Figure 1.  Figures 2 and 3 show how one bottom box looked after adding some thicker gauge fencing + quarter in hardware cloth and the ripped 2x4s for holding it all together.  The staple gun was used to hold the wire mesh in place before the 2x4s were screwed in with 2" deck screws.

Figure 1. Assembling the bottom 2x4 layer.

Figure 2. Adding wire mesh and ripped 2x4s

Figure 3. Final assembled bottom box with full wire fencing support.

For strength comparison, the second box did not use a full section of wire fencing but only a couple strands of extra wire to help support the 1/4" hardware cloth in the center sections of the box as is shown in Figure 4 before final assembly.

Figure 4. Mid-assembly of box 2, with only 2 wires run under the 1/4" hardware cloth for support.

The 2x6 and 2x8 boxes were assembled as before with pockethole joinery (see Figure 5), but without the center support.  Some had to be redrilled a few times due to slight warping in the boards to prevent wobbling in the final box structure.

Figure 5. Adding pocket holes to the 2x6 and 2x8 boards.

Filling and Finalizing the Air Prune Beds

It took approximately 1 bucket of farm topsoil to fill the air prune boxes.  A single layer of pine wood shavings was placed over the 1/4" hardware cloth at the bottom to prevent soil from streaming out during watering.  Figure 6 shows the final assembled boxes.  Figure 7 shows the addition of the 1/4" hardware cloth sides to prevent browsing.  The addition of the sides is a 2-person job and made much easier with a staple gun used to hold the mesh in place until the final wood pieces can be added along the sides.  The stapling method has an additional advantage in that the front side of the boxes can be "opened" to facilitate filling the boxes.  A small piece of wire can be used to weave the door shut when not in use.

Figure 6. Final assembled boxes.

Figure 7. Adding 1/4" hardware cloth to prevent browsing.