2025 Q1 & Q2 Kiwi Growth Summary

 First Half of 2025 Growth Documentation

On 3/17/25, I noted that the vole guards were creating a very humid, likely overly warm environment for the kiwiberries on which they had been applied (see Figure 1).  These were removed between April 17th and May 7th, but the specific date was not documented.  Other than these images, it was also not documented which plants had vole guards and which did not.  Although the overly warm/humid environment could (and may) have created issues with early leafing out or bud break, that was not a noted issue in the 2025 growing season.

Figure 1. Images from 3/17 showing the condensing humidity on the interior of the vole guards.

Sequential images of the indicator plants were taken on 4/7/25, 4/17/25 and 6/2/25, as is seen in Figures 2-10.  Comparing images taken on 4/7 to those on 4/17 show significant budswelling between these two dates.  Plants were fully leafed out by the 6/2/25 date.  Full leafing out was noted on 5/7/2025 (per Figure 11), but closed flower buds were not noted until 5/11/2025 (per Figure 12).  Per my recollections, only Geneva 3 and Cheng Bai Mountain had flowers in 2025.  None of the male plants flowered at all.  Figures 2-10 support the conclusion that bloom was done by 6/2/25, since no white flowers are visible in any of these images.

Figure 2. Ken's Red, Plant KA-8.

Figure 3. Clark (male), Plant KB-2.

Figure 4. Geneva 3, Plant KB-5.

Figure 5. Cheng Bai Mountain, Plant KB-7.  Note that due to an error, plant KB-8 & 9 were imaged instead of KB-7.  KB-9 (closes to the vertical pole) will most closely resemble KB-7 as it is also a Cheng Bai Mountain plant.

Figure 6. Fairchild (male), Plant KC-4.

Figure 7. Hardy Red, Plant KC-6.  Note that contrast and brightness have been altered in this third image so that plant leaves are more visible.

Figure 8. Anna, Plant KC-8.

Figure 9. Optiz (male), Plant KD-2.

Figure 10. Meader (male), Plant KD-7.

Figure 11. Plants had fully begun leafing out by 5/7/2025.

Figure 2. Closed buds visible on Cheng Bai Mountain, KB-7 on 5/11/2025.  Look between the bamboo stake and the leaf near the top of the plant.

 

2024 Year End Kiwiberry Summary (planting year)

 Kiwiberry growth habits/progress

The kiwiberries chosen for tracking were photographed as 2024 progressed through the first hard frost (and some through the loss of leaves).  These images are shared below.  In general, many of these plants show considerable transplant stress initially.  As the images show, there was a hard frost between 9/18/25 and 10/28/24, and the plants leaves were in the process of falling by the end of October.  Figures 5 & 9 also show that most defoliation had completed by early November.  The Optiz plant (Figure 8) had more leaves on it than the Fairchild plant (Figure 5) in November.  The Optiz plant would die back to the ground the following year and resprout, so perhaps some of this can be explained by failure to fully harden off.  I will attempt to take more pictures in the fall of 2026 to see if this is the case.

All plants are female unless noted otherwise.

Figure 1. Ken's Red, Plant KA-8

Figure 2. Clark (male), Plant KB-2

Figure 3. Geneva 3, Plant KB-5

Figure 4. Cheng Bai Mountain, Plant KB-7

Figure 5. Fairchild (male), Plant KC-4

Figure 6. Hardy Red, Plant KC-6

Figure 7. Anna, Plant KC-8

Figure 8. Optiz (male), Plant KD-2

Figure 9. Meader (male), Plant KD-7

As Figures 1-9 show, the fastest initial establishing plants seem to be Geneva 3, Cheng Bai Mountain and Anna (based on quickness to reach the top wire).  The fastest male establishing male was Clark with Fairchild as a bushy second fastest.  

Pest Pressure

No pest pressure was noted this growing year except from Japanese Beetles.  In the winter, the deer did not attempt to access the kiwi growing area, as can be seen by the lack of animal prints through the snow (my footprints are shown from a routine fence inspection).  Care was taken to stake the growing fabric well back from each vine to minimize cover and habitat for voles near the base of the vines.

Figure 10. Deer Control Documentation, Image taken on 1/28/25

Kiwi Stakes Update

 May Kiwiberry Trellising

On 5/30/25, all bamboo stakes were tied up to the trellis.  Two plants in rows KC and KD had completely fallen over.  Note: it would have been much better to get taller stakes that went all the way up to the trellis rather than to have to go through and tie these shorter stakes up.  

In order to tie them in such a way that they did not pull off the end of the stakes, I settled on a choke chain method using sisal baler twine from orchard valley supply.  This is illustrated for future reference below.

Figure 1. The top of the bamboo stake before tying with twine.

Figure 2. Start by cutting an appropriate length of twine and placing it in front of the stake with the shorter end off to the left. (I wrapped 6 inches over the top of the trellis and then pulled the twine down to my bellybutton before cutting).

Figure 3. Wrap the longer end of the twine around the stake 1-2 times.

Figure 4. Now wrap the shorter piece around the longer end 1-2 times  This is where the choke comes from.  When the longer piece pulls up, it tightens this wrapping.

Figure 5. Add a square knot to secure the choke, ideally this should be done below a "knob" in the bamboo stake.

Figure 6. Final twine image after the square knot is completed

Figure 7. The twine was tied to the middle wire of the trellis.  It was wrapped a few times around to keep it from sliding along the wire.

Figure 8. This is the same kiwiberry plant after working the vines up in a counterclockwise fashion along the stake and twine.

Figure 9. Kiwiberry planting after all twine was tied.

Note that Figure 9 shows that the bottom wire of the fence is disconnected.  An animal had entered the planting area and run North, pulling the bottom wire of the fence about 5' out on the north edge.  The bottom wire of the fence will be reconnected after replacement fence insulators are ordered.

Update from 2 days later - the twine is staying attached to the stakes, but the wind is pulling the bottom of the stakes out of the ground.  I definitely should have purchased longer stakes.  Also, it seems like some of the vines are not eager to reach up without firmer staking.  I will report on this more as they begin to reach the top wire.

Kiwiberry Progress Tracking

 Kiwiberry Post-Planting Maintenance

After planting, the kiwiberries were maintained with regular between row mowing and watering.  The growth progress of the plants was documented with images.  

Figure 1. Planting was accomplished between 7/3/24 and 7/9/24.

Figure 2. Evidence that orchard neighbors were curious about the new kiwiberry planting.

Figure 3. Liquid Fence deer/rabbit scent repellent was applied to the plants to prevent nibbling in the initial days of installation.

Kiwiberry Growth Progress

We will compare the growth progress of the following plants as representative of the majority of that plant type within the vineyard.  All were planted on 7/3, unless noted otherwise. The KX-# is the ID number of the plant and represents its location within the planting, as was shared in the previous post on Installation.

• Ken's Red KA-8 - planted 7/9
• male Clark KB-2
• Geneva 3 KB-5
• Changbai Mountain KB-7
• male Fairchild KC-4
• Hardy Red KC-6
• Anna KC-8 - planted 7/5
• male Optiz KD-2, planted 7/9
• male Meader KD-7 - planted 7/9

Each variety showed different initial characteristics that can be seen, generally, in Figure 4 below.  Note the size and replant stress difference between row KC (left) and row KB (right).  Row KB plants were much smaller at the time of planting and so likely underwent less replant/drought stress.

Figure 4. Rows KB and KC were almost fully planted out on 7/3/24.  Row KB (on the right) is mostly comprised of Geneva 3.  Row KC (on the left) is mostly comprised of Hardy Red.  Note the difference in plant size and replant stress.

Initial plant images were taken on 7/19 (before and after the first pruning to reduce replant stress), 7/23 and 8/2.  These are shown in Figures 5-13 below.  Images are shown from left to right in the following order: 7/19 before pruning, 7/19 after pruning, 7/23, 8/2.

Figure 5. KA-8, Ken's Red.

Figure 6. KB-2, male Clark.

Figure 7. KB-5, Geneva 3.

Figure 8. KB-7, Changbai Mountain

Figure 9. KC-4, male Fairchild.

Figure 10. KC-6, Hardy Red.

The Hardy Red variety (Figure 10) struggled to establish quickly, possibly due to the extensive root reorientation that needed to be accomplished during planting.  Almost all of the hardy red plants needed to have the roots extensively detangled and reoriented to head away from the middle of the plant (or circling the plant) during initial planting.  

Figure 11. KC-8, Anna.

Figure 12. KD-2, male Optiz.

The male Optiz plant died all the way to the ground during the first few weeks.  It did grow back from the ground, but in 2025, it remains to be seen how strong this plant will be going forward.

Figure 13. KD-7, male Meader.

The most vigorous plant in the first 30 days was the Geneva 3 (Figure 7), but the Changbai Mountain and male Clark varieties also showed steady strong growth.  Almost all of the plants had curled leaves for the first 10 days, indicating some level of replant/drought stress.  The curled leaves lasted longest in Ken's Red, Clark, Fairchild, and Anna, but all varieties looked much recovered by August 2.

2024 Kiwiberry Installation 1

Site Selection and Planning

It was recommended that we put the kiwiberry planting on a north facing slope to delay blossoming and potentially reduce the possibility of a killing-frost during bloom time.  Based upon topographical maps, there were three areas of Ber-Nell Farm that might be suitable, one in the blue, orange, and green sections.  For ease of land/water access and mowing, the blue section parcel was chosen.

In order to install 36 kiwiberries, 21 apple trees needed to be removed.  However, closer to 50 were removed in total to make a full load of applewood for smoking (bbq meats).  The trees in the image below were selected.  This orchard is in transition from conventional apple production to a mixed nut/fruit orchard that could be managed organically.

Tree Removal and Row Preparation

On April 25, the trees had been removed with the large pieces put into a pile for use in smoking.  The smaller pieces needed to be removed by hand (the chopping flail mower could not be used because of the height of the remaining tree stumps).  Once the trees were removed, the new rows were staked with string, marking flags, and the Pythagorean theorem (to make sure they were square). 

 The apple trees (golden delicious) were blooming on 4/25/24!

That same morning, we contracted with a neighboring farm (Stocchiero farms) to borrow some of their guys and equipment to pound in the posts necessary for the kiwiberry trellis (10' treated wood posts, sunk 4' into the ground to avoid frost heave).  The end row post spacing was 6-8', with 30' in row spacing.

It took less than 1 hour for them to pound all 24 posts with their machine.

The next action required was stump grinding, as mowing could not be accomplished with the 1-2" tall tree stumps sticking out of the ground.  The was done on May 28th, 2024.